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Meet the Brewery

Yonetsuru Shuzo Co., Ltd.

For more than 300 years, Yonetsuru Shuzo Co., Ltd. has chased one idea: sake so balanced and easy to drink, it disappears before you notice. That devotion runs deep — down to a Meiji-period (1868-1912) heirloom rice the brewery still grows in its own backyard.

  • Location Yamagata prefecture
  • Founded 1697
  • Known for Balanced, easy-to-drink sake made with revived heirloom rice
  • Popular choice Yonetsuru Junmai Ginjo No. 34

Yoichiro Umetsu, president

Yamagata prefecture

Yonetsuru Junmai Ginjo No.34

Yonetsuru Junmai Ginjo No. 34

$38.00

Brewery workers put steamed rice into a sake fermentation tank.

Gone Before You Know It: Making More Than 300 Years of Brewing Taste Effortless

Yonetsuru Shuzo Co., Ltd. has brewed sake in Takahata, Yamagata prefecture, since 1697, once serving as the ruling Uesugi clan’s official brewery. Through World War II’s lean years, President Yoichiro Umetsu says his grandfather cut his family’s food-rice rather than shortchange the sake — a devotion to quality Umetsu upholds today. The best sake, he says, is the kind that disappears before you notice. To accomplish that, the brewery uses heirloom Kamenoo rice, grown widely a century ago and now cultivated again behind the brewery.

The one that stood out among 40

In 2025, two members of our sourcing team traveled to a sake tasting event in Yamagata that drew more than 40 breweries, many well regarded. The taste of Yonetsuru sake stopped them in their tracks. Every Yonetsuru sake, fruity or dry, shared the same beautiful restraint — nothing overly floral or sharp. That restraint is exactly why it’s so easy to keep pouring glass after glass without ever tiring of it. We didn’t just admire it — we fell for it. Our team members were lucky enough to talk with the brewery’s president on the spot. Fostering that connection allowed us to become their exclusive import partner in the United States.

A Meiji-period rice grown at home again

Prized for the rich sake it produces, Kamenoo is a legendary rice variety that was planted across eastern Japan during the Meiji period through the years before World War II. In the decades that followed, it nearly went extinct due to how challenging it is to cultivate, but Yonetsuru now grows it again in the fields around its own brewery in Takahata. Crafted by brewers whose palates were trained on the region’s own food, the resulting sake is built for the table; its umami, balanced against a clean finish, pairs especially well with local seafood. The brewery has also found the sake rewards patience, deepening in complexity the longer it ages.

A shade of pink few breweries accomplish

Yonetsuru Sparkling Rose gets its color from red sake yeast, a notoriously unpredictable ingredient most breweries avoid because it tends to leave sake cloudy. President Umetsu says achieving a clear, true pink requires a proprietary technique of applying heat before pressing — one he believes few other breweries could replicate. This special sake won gold and the trophy in the sparkling category at the International Wine Challenge in 2022. At a sessionable 9% alcohol by volume, it opens with notes of yogurt and strawberry, settling into a quiet rice umami as the bubbles fade — an easy match for fried or oily food.

Why this matters

The exceptional balance of Yonetsuru sake isn’t the work of one person. Every spring, the brewery invites both customers and staff to plant rice by hand. Brewmaster Satoshi Sugai calls it “wajo ryoshu,” meaning harmony brewing good sake. You can even taste his devotion directly: The brewery’s Junmai Ginjo No. 34, named for its tank number, is reportedly Sugai’s favorite among everything the brewery makes.

Meet the brewer

Yoichiro Umetsu, president

Yoichiro Umetsu never trained as a brewer. He studied nuclear physics in graduate school before coming home in 2002 to join the family business, becoming Yonetsuru’s 12th-generation president in 2007. He says his first taste of sake was Yonetsuru’s F-1 — sipped as a New Year’s blessing in kindergarten — and it tasted better than he expected. These days, he describes himself less as an executive than as “a sake fan first,” and still keeps a “kendama” (a ball-and-cup toy) within reach.

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